I finished sewing my Elisalex muslin and this is how it turned out.
Yeah, not quite what I was expecting!
After comparing my measurements against the chart on the pattern I cut out a UK size 10. If I was buying a garment in a shop I would usually be between a UK size 8 and 10 so to find the size 10 too tight in the bodice came as a surprise. I only just managed to pull the zip all the way up, my boobs are so squished in there and if I breath out I fear I may split every seam!
Here's a list of fit issues I have found and what I may do to fix them:
- The bodice is too tight at the waist and bust even though I cut the size suggested for my measurements. To fix this I will go up a size in the bodice and do a FBA (full bust adjustment).
- The princess seam sits a good inch and a half from the apex of the bust (see above photo). To fix this I will move it over when I do the FBA.
- The neckline is so wide the dress slips off my shoulders. To fix this I will add an inch to the neckline on both sides at the shoulder.
- There's some weird gaping happening at the back neckline. I will remove an inch of fabric from both sides of the back bodice pattern piece by creating darts. Doing this shoud help stop the dress slipping from my shoulders.
- The sleeves look too baggy, this may be because of the way the bodice sits but I did have trouble fitting them into the bodice, they seemed too big. I will see what needs to be done once I have perfected the bodice.
- In the photo above I have already shortened the skirt by 6 inches at the cutting out stage. Even after taking that amount off the length it still finishes mid calf. The images I have seen of finished dresses and the fashion drawing on the pattern suggests the skirt finished just below the knee. Being only 5'2" I usually need to chop off some length but I'm going to need to take off another 5 or 6 inches. That's 12 inches of extra fabric!
On the left you can see the gaping and on the right I have pinned an inch of fabric to help the bodice sit flat. Below is a closer shot of the gaping with the shoulders pinned in the correct position on the dressform.
The packaging of the pattern is beautiful and very well done but I will point out a few important things that I feel are missing:
- It isn't clear if seam allowance is included or not (after searching online i discovered it is).
- A finished garment measurement chart should be included.
- A more detailed fabric requirement chart is a must. A size 6 isn't going to need anywhere near the amount of fabric a size 20 will need. I don't want to buy 3.5yds of expensive fabric to find I only needed 2.75yds. Also, being a British pattern I'd have expected metric measurements rather than imperial or both.
This is a lovely dress, I have seen many beautiful versions of it online but only a few reviews pointing out similar fit issues which were written before a pattern misprint was rectified (maybe I got an old version or maybe I'm just oddly shaped?!). But! I will persist. I'll mock up another bodice in calico and will take it from there.
Have you made this pattern? Did you have any problems?